|WHAT IS A SQUARE OF ROOF?
While determining how many square = (sq) on a
roof, it is multiplied length X width.
Then you must add 10% to 15% to allow for;
starter, ridge, and trim waste.
In a sq of 3-Tab shingles there are 3 bundles per
sq, each bundle is 1/3 of a sq.
On Arch. Shingles, most are also 3 bundles per
sq, however some unusual designs or brands, or
weights, will have 4 or even 5 bundles per sq.
For Cedar shakes, the measurement for a sq.
bundles, surface is the same, but there are
Then the ridge cap has to be ordered separately
in addition for shakes. This is figured in linear ft.
for ridge. Usually there is 25' to 35' per bundle of
|This term describes to nailover existing roof with
an additional layer.
|TEAROFF OR R&R:
|To tear off existing roofing material, and replace
with new products of same or different type
|All shingles on the market today are basically
fiberglass. Anything different would have to be
|3-TAB OR COMPOSITION:
|These shingles have 3-Tab's of shingle to make a
whole. These are all a basic 20yr or 25yr warranty.
|Architect is the name for a simulated shake
shingle. These are the names for simulated shake
weights. 30yr, 35/40yr, and 40/50yr. They are
heavier per sq. and heavier on the pocketbook,
They offer a different look per weight and
sometimes different colors on the different
weights, may sound strange but true.
These "ARCH" shingles give another finish option
or presentation to the appearance of your home,
similar to shakes without the expense.
|Felt paper is asphalt coated/based layer between
wood decking and shingles. Felt paper is a vapor
barrier,and will protect from rain, but only for very
short term and no guarantee to stop water. Felt
comes in different weights and thickness.
Basically 15# and 30# either will work, but can
leave more wrinkles in 30# before being covered
In a roll of felt there is 4sq in 15# and 2sq in 30#
both rolls cost the same, just that the 15# gives
There are felts but they apply to built up roofs.
|TAR AND GRAVEL:
|Tar and Gravel is a "built-up" roof covered with
gravel. The gravel is to protect from direct sun
and hail. Built-up roof is a roof that is "built' by
multiple layers. For example; Starting with bare
wood decking, a base sheet is applied by being
tacked on or mopped on with hot asphalt, usually a
33# or 43# base.
On rubber roofs, a rubber base or rubber
membrane is applied first. Then each layer is
applied, such as, 15# perforated felt or fiberglass
felt, is applied by mopping hot asphalt (hot tar),
under each layer of roofing material, such as one
layer, then 1/3 lap to each run of roofing paper to
allow for a 3ply roof, or 1/2 lap per run to allow for
two ply roof and so on.
After completion the roof may be left as is, or may
be "glaze" mopped to have a tar finish coat. Or
after "glaze" coat, then apply gravel, for "Tar and
If you have a built up roof already, and are having
problems, there are different options.
If you have an ordinary roof (no gravel) you can
and need to maintain your roof by mopping hot tar
over roof surface to re-seal and "re-rejuvenate"
roof. Like painting your home, if you don't, it will
crack and peel. So will your roof. It is
recommended to mop glaze your roof every 2-5
yrs, to maintain optimum roof life.
|HOT ROOFS/FLAT ROOFS:
|You have the basic "flatroof" or semiflat. Most all
are too flat for conventional material.
In the past the standard for this type "flat roof,"
(90# wt per sq or roll) or "Tar and Gravel".
The 90# has long out lived it's effectiveness and
we at Hot Springs Roofing, Inc. do not recommend
this product. It will only last 2-5 years and is too
risky to trust to protect your roof. We instead
recommend rubber roof.
|WHAT IF YOU ALREADY HAVE A
"TAR AND GRAVEL" ROOF?
|1. Remove gravel, by sweeping with stiff special
broom or motorized sweeper, spud bar or
motorized spud machine.
2. Remove gravel, apply insulation board over
roof, then apply built up roof or rubber.
Different Roofs have different options, some are
limited on options, others aren't limited. Only your
roofing contractor or builder can safely determine
what is safe and/or recommend.
Junior's are mostly used for the starter coarse on
shakes with the heavier shake covering over.
Or Junior's are used for a decorative siding, on
the sides of walls, dormers etc.
Medium's are the most common. They are thicker
than Junior, usually 1/2" to 5/8" thickness at butt.
JUMBO or HEAVY
Jumbo or heavy are the thickest, usually 3/4" to 1"
thickness at butt.
Each "thickness," has different prices, Jumbo's
naturally being most expensive.
|This is a heat and moisture exhaust from heat
build up in the attic. Yes, also moisture. Heat
naturally has moisture and many times you will
see them covered with trash bags in winter, to
hold in the heat. Believe it or not, this is bad for
the roof. It builds up moisture in the attic,
causing the decking to mildew and moisture,
most always not a leak, but could cause a leak.
(Do not cover Turbines
it is bad for your roof.)
|STAPLES,NAILS, OR GUNS???
|On shingle roofs (not shakes) staples are not
recommended or good for your roof. They don't
hold roofing well. It holds in wood, but not roofing.
Nails vs. Nail Gun
We recommend the use of hand tacks/nails driven
in by roofing hatchet/hammers as opposed to coil
nailer. Hand tacks go in tighter and leave roof
secure, However in some instances coil nails are
necessary. Such as:
A-Frames, Steep roofs, store mansards
(store-fronts), because safety in this area is
critical and we don't have three hands. On steep
roofs to properly align shingle takes two hands
and no other way than to use nail guns to assist
on this type roof.
|HOW TO DETERMINE ROOF PITCH??
|WE NOW ACCEPT VISA, MASTER CARD, & DISCOVER-CREDIT CARDS.
|Q & A's
OUR ROOFING EXPERIENCE GIVES YOU
THAT OLD FASHIONED RELIABILITY.
WE DO NOT USE STAPLES,
WE USE NAILS.
WE NAIL FOR QUALITY.
|Roof pitch is determined by 1" of drop in every 12".
Any 5/12 pitch or less is walkable.
Any 6/12 & 7/12 pitch is semi steep.
And any 8/12 pitch or steeper is considered steep
and definitely has an additional charge.